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Q: What is the concept behind Resilience Lift Extreme?

A: Resilience Lift Extreme is for women in their 40's, 50's and beyond, who are in the menopausal and peri-menopausal group. One thing that occurs during this time of life--which coincides with hormonal changes--is that skin is less able to recover from external stressors and this can lead to the acceleration of visible signs of skin ageing. This external stress can be physical--pulling or massaging the skin too hard. It can be environmental--pollution, ozone and other pollutants which cause oxidative damage. And it can be photochemical, which is basically UVA and UVB rays. All these elements are going to affect skin's appearance. When you are ageing, it takes your skin more time to defend itself against the visible effects of external exposure or pollution or other external stressors.

Q: Why is recovery such an important aspect of Resilience Lift Extreme?

A: As we age, the skin loses its ability to recover from the visible effects of oxidative damage and as a result there is a cumulative build-up of visible damage to the skin. Younger skin is a lot more versatile and flexible and is better able to defend itself against the daily assault from the environment and free radicals that may be damaging to the skin and may accelerate the appearance of skin sagging. That's why we have to help skin. We are going to help skin's natural renewal process, so it looks less damaged. Basically, Resilience Lift Extreme helps skin's appearance recover faster from the visible effects of oxidative damage, so that it is better able to look more "lifted."

Q: Why is energy loss so significant?

A: For the first time we are able to truly understand the importance of energy to the appearance of skin thanks to clinical testing done in our lab to measure the amount of energy in the skin. When younger people are exposed to UV light their skin naturally recovers faster from the visible effects of UV damage because younger skin has higher energy reserves. Those energy reserves are lower in older people, which is why older skin is less able to naturally repair itself quickly and therefore looks more damaged.

Q: Explain the "Three pillars of ageing".

A: Visible ageing is a multi-factorial process. There are three main factors we identify: (1) environmental ageing, which starts very early--as soon as we are born; (2) hormonal ageing, due to the deficiency of certain hormones, which impact skin's natural ability to produce collagen and cause skin to visibly sag; and (3) chronological ageing, meaning the simple passing of time. I relate those three types of visible ageing to loss of recovery: poorer recovery from the visible effects of oxidative damage and slower recovery from the visible effects of energy loss.

Q: How does Resilience Lift Extreme differ from the original Resilience Lift?

A: What makes a big difference is the ExtremeLift3 Complex, which contains new and advanced ingredients to help skin to increase its natural collagen production.

We've discovered that glycation not only causes cross-linking of proteins such as collagen, which can lead to collagen degradation and loss of elasticity, but that glycation of certain enzymes also may occur. Enzymes are proteins that have a very specific shape--there are antioxidant enzymes and enzymes which activate the energy pathway. So we decided to look at these different enzymes. We found that glycation contributes to the deactivation of antioxidant and energy enzymes, causing damage to the skin's appearance.

Q: What are some of the key ingredients that make Resilience Lift Extreme so effective?

A: More Lift: The star ingredient in the new ExtremeLift3 Complex is Triterpenes, extracted from the Tepescohuite Tree, found in Mexico, and which the Mayan people believe has renewal properties. The Triterpenes have a strong capacity for helping skin facilitate its natural collagen production. Also included is Sweet Almond Extract, a protein film that is known to help strengthen and tighten skin's appearance.

More Energy: Energising ingredients keep skin working at its peak. Creatine, an amino acid essential to the storage of energy works with Yeast Extract, and AMP, which contains all the essential elements to help energise skin.

More Hydration: Lost moisture is reclaimed with a combination of ingredients designed to combat skin dryness. Hyaluronic Acid is a sugar based polymer and helps to bind water to the skin. Trehalose and Sorbitol are sugar molecules with the ability to improve hydration and hence facilitate the exchange of water and ions of the skin. Extensin BG is a natural polymer, derived from carrots, which improves the suppleness of the skin.

Barrier Renewal: Finally, Resilience Lift Extreme helps protect and renew the skin's natural barrier with ingredients such as Potassium Cholesterol Sulfate, a lipid which plays an essential role in maintaining the skin barrier function. CS Lipid Complex works in synergy with the Cholesterol Sulfate to strengthen the skin barrier, and SC Complex, a blend of naturally-derived lipids such as Ceramides to protect the barrier function of the skin.

Daniel H. Maes, Ph.D. is Vice President of Research & Development at the Estée Lauder Laboratories. Born in Belgium and raised in France, he studied chemistry in Paris and Vancouver, and since 1991 has played a vital role in developing the leading-edge technology products enjoyed by Estée Lauder customers around the world. Dr. Maes has published numerous scientific papers and is considered one of the world's top skincare experts, but around the lab he is known for his ability to explain complex science in everyday language.

View Dr. Maes' previous columns.